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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:51 pm
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Location: United Kingdom
I have purchased K215:) which was a write off and have rebuilt the hull and am in the process of rebuilding the seat and carriage.:D
unfortunately most of the running rigging is missing and i need some help in sorting this out :((main sheet leads, jib sheets, toe straps, carriage mover? etc. are all a bit of a mystery having sailed a humble Solo up till now.Closeup Photo would be useful
Looking forward to getting onthe water soon but need some help with the strings.
David Lyle
K215 (at the moment):)mailto kayjaylyle@aol.com:?:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 6:43 am 
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Sounds like you need some hands on advice. Where are you? Or why not pay a visit to Weymouth second week August where we have the Worlds, and you can see first hand how things are rigged. There should be, I think, 57 boats, which probably means there are 57 slightly different ways of doing things.

Mike
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 12:31 pm 
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Location: United Kingdom
K215 nearing Completion after rebuild
Still need some help with rigging info especially relative to seat.
Looking forward to being on the water soon.
Looking for second hand jib

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:59 pm 
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The seat is simpler than it might seem from a far.
It slides when there is no weight on it and jams in place when you sit on it.
So a bit of slop is actually a pretty good thing because it allows the thing to slide across with out binding and then point load when you are on it. About 3mm clearance is very good, but this can be as much as 6mm with no negatives except for the increased ability to eat the stray sheet.
There is usually a stap on top which is used for hauling the thing around and a leash or limiting line from the center of the seat to the center of the carriage that prevents it from being extended more than 2040mm from centerline.
If your seat carriage is one that has slides such that it can be moved fore & aft, things can be more complex.
Much depends on how easy it is to move. If it is pretty sticky and you have to get off the seat to move it back and forward, then you probably can just put it where you want it and forget it. If it really moves beautifully, then you have to restrain it. Some people run the dead end of their mainsheet through the a few blocks down to deck level and then aft. This means that some of the main sheet load will hold the carriage aft, and that all you need is a 2:1 tackle and cleat to pull and hold it forward. Some have matching tackles and matching cleats such that you pull one and ease the other to move the seat.
I hope this offers enough insight to move forward, look at lots of pictures and if you can ask more specific questions, I know we can give more specific answers.
SHC

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:29 pm 
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Location: United Kingdom
Thanks Steve

The main problem i have at the moment is the attachment of the main sheet. when i got the canoe the only clue was two blocks on the boom. I took some pictures at the Oxford meeting last year but they all seem a bit different to mine.
On most of the photos that i took the mainsheet block is attached to the back edge of the carriage. The problem i have is that there is no obvoius evidence of where the blocks were attached. The carriage is quite a lot narrower than the seat and the back edge of the seat overhangs the carriage by about six inches, which prevents the attachment of the mainsheet blocks to the back of the carriage. Also there are two cut outs in the back edge of the Seat about six inches long and the same for and aft just outboard of the last foot holes, what are these for?

Does anyone remember how K215 was rigged or have a contact for the former owner.

I have some photos if anyone would like to have a look at them for me

Help again

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 6:36 pm 
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What you have is one of the Swedish style carriages that were built in the late 80s. On those boats there were two laminated wooden "horns" ( for lack of a better word) that extended from beneath the seat carriage out and then back and up to just behind the seat. The main sheet blocks were mounted on these.
Is the boat a weird shade of green? In which case the boat was built by Olle Berquist in Sweden. Her owner in the UK was Simon Allen. He is still active in the class and lives near Southampton.
SHC

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:37 am 
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Nearly there with the restoration project on K215
one more question.i have a non self tacking jib and after looking at all the photos from the world championships last year i still can not work out the best way to rig the jib sheets. There are two tubes in the ends of the sliding seat which look as though they should be some use can someone explain the best way to rig this it looks as though shock cord is used in come configurations. Help!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:09 pm 
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Location: Australia
Image

here is a simple layout for jib shees from AUS 9 (thanks Ed for the pic).
As you can see, sheets go through tracked pulleys on the foredeck-down to a pulley/fairlead to a cleat-then across to the opposite seat end to a piece of elastic. The elastic runs throught the seat to connect to the other sheet.

This keeps the jib sheets near the end of the plank so you can grab them for tacking/gybing/adjusting.
Don't make the sheets to short or you won't be able to get your carriage aft and still adjust the sheets. And to long and everything will foul in a lovely mess in the middle of the boat.

On the foredeck tracks:
Have elastic to pull the pulley/car outboard when going down wind
To pull the pulley/cars inboard, set up a line that runs o the opposite side of the boat (so the leeward car can be pulled in on that tack). A good idea is make this line continuous so no matter where you are in the boat, when you pull it both cars come in to their windward position.

Hope this helps

Christian

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IC Promo DVD: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=zgdo4p90jHo
2008 IC Worlds DVD: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=5_PUxqP0ssg

Australian IC Website: http://www.internationalcanoe.yachting.org.au


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:28 am 
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Thanks for advice
my set up looks very similer with foredeck tracks and cleating arrangement. Still need a little more detail on sheet and shock cord arrangement. Does the set up end up as a continuous sheet with elastic in the middle or is the elastic fixed in some way. Do the sheets go into the end of the seat or is there a knot between the sheet and elastic that prevents this?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 9:52 am 
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Elastic runs the length of the seat with a loop in each end
Tie sheets to each corresponding loop of elastic, to keep my sheets short I fasten using a half hitch within a half hitch but a bow line will do.

Your sheets are now fastened via the elastic to the seat, when the seat extends the sheet will tighten pulling in the jib, but not all the way as the elastic will stretch.

Don't get too hung up on all this, there'll be plenty of other stuff happening when the wind is up for any of this to worry you! A good rule is, if it doesn't work simply and efficiently, then there is probably something wrong.

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http://icflatpack.blogspot.com/
IC Promo DVD: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=zgdo4p90jHo
2008 IC Worlds DVD: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=5_PUxqP0ssg

Australian IC Website: http://www.internationalcanoe.yachting.org.au


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